Wipeout!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore waist to chest high sets and clean.
Ala Moana flat to knee high.
Diamond Head waist to chest high sets.
Light trade winds so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the ssa.
Have a wonderful day!

another perfect day in paradise.  today was probably the most gorgeous day of the year so far.

and the waves were pretty fun too.  super clean long rides!

days like this are a foilers dream.  it’s like flying over oil…

then went out for an afternoon boat cruise.  the trade winds are back to it was cool and blue…

when i wake up and saw this cold mist on my car for the first time this year, i knew that Winter in Hawaii has officially started.  i love it…

i passed by this house we use to live in when i was a little kid.  it is right at V-Land on the North Shore and i have some good memories, and some bad ones.  it’s crazy how the bad ones come back when you’re standing right in front of that house.  those were some of the darkest years of my life that i never talked about.  and never will…

this is where i have some of the best memories in my life.  Molokai!  and this is where i want to spend many more days of my life with family and friends.  it’s the only place in the world i can actually be myself.  lazy, relaxed, connected, happy, and FREE…