gosh, it sure is beautiful with these light winds we’ve been having.  the normally windy and bumpy spots are completely the opposite.  the conditions are like Indonesia…

when Mateus was a baby and use to look at me, he use to stare in my eyes with this face.  i wonder what he was thinking…

now this kid is grown up.  he wants to play football so he made his helmet himself.  so cute!  i was throwing the ball with him and he has a very accurate aim.  amazing…

ok Hawaii, get ready for this!  taser guns will be legal starting January 1st, 2022.  i’m going to have one of these in my pocket at all times.  if i catch you stealing from me, i’m going to shoot it right between your eyes.  then reload and the next shot is going right between your legs.  i’m sure everybody will have one, including the criminals, so i’m getting mine for self defense purposes…

on our last trip, we went hunting in the mountains early one morning.  t-shirt, shorts, and slippers.  next time i hope to be more prepared.

then Seth went barefoot.  that’s the Hawaiian blood in him.  

i made some minor adjustments to my foil yesterday.  when i caught my first wave, it was magic!   i was flying faster than ever and turning more sharper than ever.  so i guess it’s better than ever!  

good to see Takahashi-san back in Hawaii.  we had a great talk about quarantine, business, friends, family, Okinawa, and life.  we both agree that life is short to it’s our time to enjoy more and more by the minute…

Island style with Seth Moniz, Benji Brand, and Kaito Kino.

Good morning 4am.
North shore shoulder high and perfect. Pupukea and Laniakea good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high sets and clean.
No wind this morning so perfect conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!