The Morning After

the conditions this morning was dreamy.  super glassy, perfect waves, and just a couple people out.

after surfing Backdoor yesterday, i wanted to jump right back on my foil.  everything seemed to be easier and more controllable.  surfing is definitely helping my foiling, and foiling is helping my surfing.

when you surf big waves, you have to draw big lines like this.  so yeah, i felt like i was surfing huge waves today!  flying even faster then i was at Pipeline yesterday.

ever since the pandemic, some places have closed down, some places survived, and some new places opened up.  i tried this new pho restaurant and it was absolutely the best i’ve ever had.

you can tell by the freshness of the vegetables.

so happy to experience a new restaurant and now i know where to eat the best pho on Oahu!

Hunter or Hunted?

whenever i go to the outer islands, i always call and ask for permission.  i make sure the boys know we’re coming.  we go to sacred spots and if you don’t have permission, you will get into trouble.  there are places where the locals sit on the top of mountains and shoot bullets at your boat.  these guys are all excellent hunters so you do not want to be the hunted.  i respect their land, and i respect their resources.  so if you plan to go to these sacred places, make sure you have permission.  i teach that to my nephews, and i teach that to everybody that joins me.  and if you break the rules, i’ll personally throw you off the boat…

November 16, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Junior Sailing Days…

Good morning 4am.
North shore head high and perfect. Laniakea good!
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
Light winds so another glassy morning.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!