i went out super early to the North shore.  the waves were way bigger than i expected so i went to check out Backdoor.  when i saw the ocean, i instantly got butterflies in my stomach.  i knew it was too big for the board i had, but i also knew i couldn’t pass up 6′ barrels.

so i grab my new 6’1 Kerry Tokoro that i never tried before.  i just got off multiple days of foiling.  but mentally and physically, i’m 100% ready for anything.  this is what i live for.  i was walking down the empty beach to enter Pipeline.   i was excited and my heart was beating fast, but i knew i had to leave my emotions on the beach.  i get out and guys like John John Florence and Billy Kemper were out.  Backdoor/Pipeline is the mecca of surfing.  everything is intense.  after i caught my first wave, i felt calm and confident.  it felt so good to be mixed up with the major league surfers in the world.  all it does is make me want to be better.  and better i’ll be…

back in 2009, i went on a surf/dive trip with the Red Sea Ocean Adventures crew.  we scored some pretty good waves, and we scored some pretty good fish.  this is Eric Walker catching his monster fish.  i shot it with a Canon 20D with a 15mm lens.  it was an amazing trip.  wish you were there…

this shot was taken in 1999 by world famous photographer Chris Van Lennep at Jeffrey’s Bay in South Africa.  we got to surf this perfect uncrowded wave for 7 days in a row.  after that trip, i told myself i’m content and will never go back because i knew it couldn’t get better than that.  now it’s super crowded and this is where Mick Fanning got attacked by a great white shark on live tv.  i wasn’t surprised because you could see and feel the wildlife right under your board.  there were dolphins and seals swimming right under you.  it was beautiful, and yet scary.  the only reason i’d go back to South Africa is to go on safaris.  for me, that was way more exciting than surfing the best right point wave in the world.

Surfing friendships last a lifetime…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5’and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and rain.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!