Lucky 2

Diamond Head was super good all day long!  then it got even better for the evening session guys!  this is what you call “perfect cliffs.”  

the winter season has officially started with these weird winds and weather.  now it’s going to take a little wave knowledge to be at the right place at the right time.  this is the most exciting part of the year for me because there are so many options!  

i came home today and cleaned some fish.  Mateus wanted to help me so he helped me by spraying me with water, taking my chair, losing ball on the street, and just keeping me entertained the whole time.  haha.

the kids were super happy to catch 2 fish on one lure!  they were jigging and usually one fish bites, but this time, it was two.  lucky boys!

Fruitful Secret Mountains

we went hunting in the huge green mountains and valleys for hours.  i haven’t walked that much in years!  and to top it off, i was wearing slippers!!!  

on Oahu, there use to be wild fruit trees in all the mountains.  not anymore.  so hiking up mountains full of mangos, avocados, coconuts, and other healthy fruits is so nice.  

this came at a perfect time because i didn’t have any water or food.  this quenched my thirst and satisfied my appetite.  i wouldn’t have made it down the mountain without this!

after 30 years of looking for shells, i never ever found anything so beautiful like this.  it was the biggest and most perfect one ever.  you can still see the star on the top!  i love it!!!

November 13, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Memories:  Yamari next generation!  Wakayama 2013

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm. Maybe some showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!