i love mornings like this because everything is calm.  the next 5 days will be light winds so the ocean will be beautiful!  

this morning was beautiful because it was super empty.  it’s the first time in a while i didn’t see any cars parked in the front.  i paddled out and had a great session!  

i’ve been waiting for months and months for this.  light winds and no waves around the whole island.  i packed up Mayuki and i’m going on a boat trip.  to where and how long?  nobody knows.  i don’t even know.  i’m just glad i’m finally going on a trip!

have you ever seen an angry local surfer?  this one in San Francisco decided to let his stress out on a foiler.  that foiler wasn’t wearing a leash and when he fell, his board went through the lineup.   that is very dangerous so i don’t blame the surfer.  it’s those kind of foilers that make other foilers look bad.  shame on you!  wear a freaken leash!!!

it’s so cool to see more and more surfers paddling out in the dark.  good for the mind, body, and soul.  no complaints for the day after this…

you’ll see the same guys every morning.  that’s what you call dedication.

Kaila-chan is getting bigger and i can’t wait to take her for her first surf session!  

and Mommy Mai-chan entering contests and placing in the finals.  that’s amazing! 

i took this out of my portfolio.  it’s the 1988 Hawaii Surf Federation “Beach Beat Series” final ratings.  i was looking at the list of surfers and the guys still surfing everyday is Lance, Carter, Robert, Tim, and Fred.  we’re all in the “Lifetime Surfing Club.”  i respect all these guys!

Paradise @ Lanikai Beach, Oahu…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore waist high and good.
Ala Moana waist to chest high. Super 2.5 king tide at 7am.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!