Mini South Swell

another beautiful morning here in Hawaii.  it was so beautiful that i had to walk to the Hilton to take this photo.  fresh air and  a beautiful view.

i took my new student surfing.  it was her very first time and it was pretty easy to get her to love surfing.  how can’t you?

i counted 49 surfers from Bowls to Rock Piles.  lots of waves for everyone!

i was loving the longboard a lot.  super fun and really long rides.  the mini South swell continues this week.  surf, foil, and longboard, going to do it all…

A Painful Injury

2 months ago, i pulled into a barrel on my surfboard and didn’t make it.  my toes bent all the way to my ankle.  the next morning i woke up, my foot was in pain, super swollen, and i couldn’t walk.  so i went to the Emergency Room and the doctor told me i couldn’t surf for at least 2 months.  i told the doctor, “you are joking right?”  he said “no i’m not.”  i was in shock! 

he gave me this foot brace and crutches and told me to say in bed for a while.  i could barely walk, but i knew that the ocean would fix anything so i kept going into the ocean.  i couldn’t short board or foil because i couldn’t pop up.  BUT, after thinking about it, i thought “um, maybe i can tow in foil?  it’s easy to get up so that might work.”  

so the next day, i went to tow in and i was right!  it hurt like hell but once i got on waves like this, the pain was instantly gone.  it’s crazy how the ocean fixes everything!   but after i got back to the harbor, all the pain came back and had to almost crawl back to my car.  thankfully, i’m 90% now so life is much better…

November 7, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Surf your dream…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high this mornings 2.5′ high tide. Bigger later when tide gets lower. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to longboard.
Have a wonderful day!