ever since is started foiling, i’ve been reconnecting with surfer friends that i’ve known since high school.  Greg Stueber is a retired fireman and a Sandy Beach local surfer.  now he’s addicted to foiling, and also addicted to making the equipment better.  i just picked up this Amundson/Stueber tail adapter he custom made for my tow in foil.  now i’m going to go even faster and smoother! thank you Greg!

i was driving on Summer Street and reminiscing.  i use to be the newspaper deliver boy for this whole area when i was 11 years old.  riding my bike and getting chased by dogs was so fun.  haha…

and i use to ride my bicycle while holding on to my boogie board on this dangerous road to Sandy Beach.  that was stupid…

it was so beautiful on the East side today!

i wanted something different and this was something different. omg, it was a beautiful morning session on the East side.

can you believe that another surf rack in Waikiki got burned?  this one is on the side of the Cheesecake Factory.  somebody should teach these arsonists how to surf.   then they will never burn a surfboard.  it’s unbelievable!

back in 1990, i had a dream to become a professional surfer so i had to look for sponsors.  some came easily, and some didn’t.  i made this portfolio on the school campus while i was going to college.  it was made on the first Macintosh computer that the school got.  this was my introduction to the Macintosh, and this is how i learned how to use a computer.  looking back, i didn’t realize how determined i was to live my dream…

as time in college went by, i would put my floppy disc in the Macintosh and update things.  at 22 years old, i set my future goals.  i wanted to be on top, i wanted to promote my sponsors, and i wanted to gain respect everywhere i surfed.  looking back at this, i just laugh.  i was a just a little kid with some pretty huge dreams.  

my good friend Kevin Kamakura was an aspiring surf photographer so he would practice on me.  he called me up to the University of Hawaii and he shot this in the studio.  i was smiling the whole time and he told me “don’t smile!!!”  haha.  i was only 145lbs (65kg) with a slim 29″ waist.  now i’m 182lbs (82kg) with a much wider waist.  nobody believed how skinny i was but here it was.  not anymore.  haha…

anyway, i’ve been cleaning up and getting rid of things.  so i’ll be importing some life changing moments.  i got some pretty cool photos from 30 years of traveling all around the world.  stay tuned…

Memories:  Happy Hour Barrel @ Lance’s Right’s in the Mentawai Islands.  Photo by Kenji Sahara

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and getting bumpy again.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!