WCT: The Secret Barra

i was watching Seth’s Round 2 heat and he surfed it really well.  Barra is a very good wave, but the tricky part is finding the good ones.  if you get the good waves, you will get the good scores.  it’s just so perfect!  Seth got one of the best waves of the day in this heat and scored a 8.70 out of 10.

flawless turns…

at Barra, you can either paddle back out to the lineup after riding a wave.  the current is strong so your arms better be strong.  OR, you can run along the beach back up to the point and jump back in the lineup.  but your legs better be strong.  i’ve done both here at Barra and both is pretty hard to do.  it’s the craziest workout in the 100 degree hot sun.  i remember almost fainting on that beach because i was so dehydrated.  i don’t remember it being so fun getting back out either way…

Seth lost in Round 3 and i was devastated.  i felt like throwing my iPhone against the wall and screaming!  when Seth loses, i feel like i lost.  it’s so frustrating!!!

August 12, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Riding along…

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Parking Lot Boys

the sunsets have been amazing from my back yard.  the colors are so beautiful!

the waves were super good today again!  bigger than yesterday, more waves than yesterday, and less people than yesterday.  all good things!

this is Greg connecting with photographer Neal Miyake.  this is how you get the beautiful morning shot!

look at Neal’s positioning with his camera in back of Greg.  i’m pretty sure he got a super beautiful photo.  i was talking to Neal about the days we use to swim out at huge Pipeline shooting photos.  we would be swimming in the lineup with our fisheye lens trying to get in positions like this.  it’s pretty crazy when i think about it now.  haha…

no matter if you’re in or out of the water, you got eyes looking at you all the time.  so i’m always on my best behavior, especially in the parking lot.  haha.  here are the everyday locals watching anything and everything…