Sacred Heart

another beautiful early morning.  super fun driving around the ocean looking for a spot where nobody’s out…

did you see the heart shape in the clouds?  that was so cool!!!

we found a secret spot and had another wonderful day to ourselves.  

it got warm very fast and when the sun came out, the ocean turned from gray to green to blue…

more record covid cases in Hawaii and Japan so it looks like i’m not going anywhere soon.  when this pandemic is over, i’m going to be at the top of my game on the foil.  i teach my students that surfing different equipment and different spots will make you wiser, stronger, and better.  so i’m practicing what i preach…

Stop the Rape!

since this pandemic, i feel so much more connected to the ocean.  i spend more and more time just observing things.  i don’t hunt or kill as much as before, just for dinner.  so instead of swimming around with a spear, i swim around with a camera.  and i’ve been seeing some cool things!

 

when people rape the ocean, the police have been letting it go for decades.  that’s the reason why Hawaii has no fish anymore.  but recently, the locals said enough is enough.  there are rules and if you don’t follow them, you will be caught, fined, jailed, and blasted on social media.  this Japanese lady and her husband got caught raping the ocean of aquarium fish.  they have been fined $272,000 and didn’t pay or show up to court.  now the police and every local is looking for them.

there was a photo of the girl on the news but i won’t post it.  some people say she ran away and went back to Japan.  if so, that’s pretty sad.  so how do i feel about it?  well, first of all, i don’t like to bash people, but i don’t like people raping the ocean either.  i just feel that if you make a mistake, you should take responsibility.  then your consequences will hopefully stop other people from doing it.  running away won’t solve any problem.  our oceans are being raped every single day.  and if we don’t stop it soon, there will be no living creatures in the sea.  and if that happens, we all die…

July 22, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Small days and Big smiles…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!