when you take an interisland flight from Maui, you will pass by the backside of Molokai.  this is one of the most sacred and beautiful places in the world.  if you’ve been there before, you know what i mean.

and if you’re a tourist, please don’t go to Molokai because you’re not welcomed.  respect the locals, respect the culture, and respect the island.

thank you Chichan for the photos…

last week, this Spanish guy went on a surf trip to surf Puerto Escondido in Mexico.  this was his first wave there and this also was his last wave of his life.  he wiped out and drowned on this wave.  hearing this news gave me chicken skin because i almost drowned there too.  i still remember telling myself when i got held down for 2 consecutive waves “keep calm, and if i die, i’m doing what i love.”  i’ll never forget that.  so that’s what i feel about people who die doing what they love.  you can’t ask for a better exit than that.  and only a surfer will understand…

every so often, a random photo will pop up on my iPhone.  this one made me smile.  made me smile because of Tony’s life of making people happy with his homemade lilikoi butter.  he’s no longer here but his aloha will live in our lives forever.  and also seeing Asayamasan made me smile.  he’s living the healthy life in Japan going surfing, gardening, yoga, ukulele, and family time.  that’s so wonderful!  

i’ve been seeing dolphins almost everyday.  and it makes me feel so lucky…

Feeling high…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!