when i paddle out super early in the morning, these old timers are already out.  and when i finish my long session and go in, these old timers are still out surfing.  i don’t know where they get all the energy but i like seeing that.  especially Mark because he’s always on the best waves…

today was the first time i saw Clarence do a hang 5 on his SUP.  i couldn’t believe it!  super cool guys that love surfing more than anything…

i just love the feeling of riding open ocean swells.  every bump in the ocean is rideable on a foil so i’m always looking for little bumps here and there.  it’s like connecting the dots…

after another wonderful session, i was just about to reach the harbor when i saw some dolphins jumping around under the rainbow.  so i thought i’d drive by and say hello…

they will come right to the boat and swim right in front.  today, they were jumping all over the front of Mayuki and i was loving natures spectacular show…

whenever i surf at Waikiki, i’m always on defense mode.  there are so many beginners out there that are totally clueless.  and there are so many good surfers out there that are totally clueless too.  so whenever a set comes and everybody starts to paddle for it, i feel like i’m dodging bullets.  9-10′ bullets made out of fiberglass…

but there are a few locals out there that know the rules and etiquette.  if it wasn’t for them, this place would be 10x more dangerous.  when Mark paddles for a wave, nobody else goes.  that’s respect…

so yes, i love to surf with the old timers.  every time i take my friends out there, i tell them “when these old timers paddle for a wave, don’t even try to go.  just sit, watch, and be inspired.”  

the first signs of Summer in Japan.  thank you Seira-chan!

Girls Day in Waikiki…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and little bumpy.
Diamond Head head high and really bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!