The Change

weddings are cool. it’s the start of a new life for both bride and groom.  a lot of young couples get married and think life’s going to be easy.  WRONG!  marriages can be difficult for some and that’s probably the reason why the divorce rate in Hawaii is over 60%.  so this pastors message was a good one.  he said “Always be willing to change.”  willing to change means willing to change for yourself, and willing to change for your partner.  i thought that was a good one…

July 13, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Come fly with me!

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and good.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

South will Come!

wow, it’s been a while since i long boarded out at Bowls.  i forgot how fun it is, i forgot how long the wave is, and i forgot how beautiful it is…

oh, and i forgot how dangerous it is!  i almost got whacked in the head today.  haha…

good to see my friends kid out surfing and enjoying the ocean.  i knew this kid when from when he was still in his Mother’s stomach.  good to see you Brax!

everybody is asking me when the next swell is coming???  are you serious?  we just had the one of the best swells in the history of south swells.  5 full days of big surf and even today still had some leftovers.  slow down everybody, enjoy the last one and don’t worry about the next.  it will come…