My Passion…

Good morning 3:15am.
South swell here!
Head high at Ala Moana and getting bigger really fast!
Swell peaking tonight and tomorrow at 5-6′.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to tow.
Have a wonderful day!

i was checking out this little row boat.  a couple guys paddled this from San Fransisco to Hawaii in this.  it took them 30 days!!!  that’s pretty impressive…

i love the evenings and early mornings.  it’s the best time to surf!

went out to a very popular spot this morning and surprisingly, there were only 2 guys out!

both of them were SUP guys so they sat way outside.  i was in the middle riding everything that came my way.

after an hour of a dream session, other surfers started coming out.

then there were 10 SUP guys and girls.  luckily i was on my foil so i could go in and out and all around them.

passed by Bowls and like usual, it was pretty crowded!

tomorrow the biggest South swell of the year is coming.  i have big plans!

so happy to see Tomami-san surfing in Miyakojima!  that looks so fun!!!

Tomami-san used this pandemic to surf, exercise, travel, and fight!  she’s looking so good!!!

i was looking back at photos of the boys.  i still clearly remember all these little dive trips.  we would squeeze on my little boat and have a great time in the sea…

and we would always come back with dinner and lots of memories.  i’m super proud of these kids!