Big Bowl yesterday afternoon…

Good morning 4am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana overhead with bigger sets. Afternoon better!
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf 5 hours.
Have a wonderful day!

i was up at 3am watching the news and getting ready for today.  i knew it was going to be special!  South shore 8-12′ faces!!!

before i went to sleep last night, i made sure i had all my equipment ready.  no excuses…

we got out in the dark and ended up tow in foiling for 4 hours!  the waves were big and perfect!  want to thank my partner for the crazy rides!

before we went in, i showed my friend some of the secret spots i surfed since i was a kid.  this one only had 4 guys out and the waves were so perfect!

still solid swells tomorrow so waking up early again and searching for the biggest wave again!

this USA olympic athlete tested positive for marijuana.  that means she cannot compete in the upcoming Tokyo Olympics.  it’s been a controversy in America because marijuana is legal in some states.  BUT, in Japan, it’s taboo and it’s the olympic rules.  rules are rules so that’s the consequence.  plain and simple…   

and this other olympian on the left looked away disrespecting the National Anthem.  another controversy here in America.  a North Korean defector living in America said “If she did the exact same thing at this very moment, if she was North Korean, not only herself will be executed, [also] eight generations of her family can be sent to political prison camp and execution.”  and not only North Korea, but many other counties too.  if she doesn’t like America, she should leave.  plain and simple…

i want to congratulate Seira-chan for winning both shortboard and longboard divisions this past weekend in Shikoku.  future olympian?  if so, i’m sure she will be the perfect representative for Japan.  sweet, smart, calm, and very respectful.  a good role model and a true champion!  i’m super proud of you Seira-chan!!!