Kimo Gasper:  36 years local at Big Right’s.  Barrel Master…

Good morning 3:40am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana head high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Waikiki chest high and perfect.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to get barreled.
Have a wonderful day!

i knew the waves were going to get good mid-day so instead of going early, i exercised in the morning and waited patiently. it was hard to be patient, but i’m glad i did. i texted Lance Hookano around 10am and we met in the lineup. out at Big Rights, these local boys control everything.

Ronnie Yamada has been surfing out there for 41 years. so when he paddles for a wave, don’t even try to go for it. he’s probably gotten the most tube time out of anybody in the history of Big Rights…

Cedric Nakamura also has been surfing out there for 40 years. i met these guys 35 years ago out there so i’m the young one of the group. every time Big Right’s has been big for the past decades, we are all out there no matter what!

Lance Hookano is the enforcer.  he caught the wave of the day and when i saw this photo i took, i was in shock because that could have been my wave!  haha.

there was also a fight in the lineup. those 2 guys were lucky Lance went in because he would have probably slapped both of those guys heads. nobody on this island got into more fights than Lance. i’m just lucky he’s like a brother to me because his slap hurts…

Carter and i jumped on Mayuki for an afternoon session.  big swells like this don’t come very often so you have to take advantage of it.  so after 4 hours of tow in foiling in the morning, i was ready to get barreled on my shortboard!  

right when we pulled up, there was a freak set!  the boys told me it was 6′!  

got out my camera and took a couple photos.  here is Kimo Gasper on a beauty.  

then Joshua Moniz came out and showed us how the best surfers in the world do it.  to me, Joshua has one of the best styles ever…

then on the way back in, we stopped at Bowls for some front row seats.  it was pretty dam good too!

summer time in Hawaii is so sweet.  i can surf 7 hours a day and when i get home, i’m fully content.  sleep like a baby and do it all over again tomorrow…