Always searching for the perfect barrel…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana shoulder to head high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

another epic morning.  there were a lot of surfers out and you have to be alert, smart, and know how to catch waves.  if you’re none of that, forget surfing at Bowls.  it’s probably the hardest spot on the South shore to get a wave all to yourself.  

but when you get one, you will get the best left hand wave in town.  waves were head high and perfect.  tomorrow should be good too so better go sleep early.  goodnight…

wow, had a wonderful time short boarding Bowls!  the waves were good, my board was good, and the vibe was good.  welcome to Summer Hawaii 2021!

Diamond Head in the evening was super good too!  long lines of swells marching in.  and not too crowded too.

Mateus told me he is learning how to snorkel.  so he came over and showed me how.  haha.  so cute!

i use to teach kids how to snorkel in the bathtub so this is just another way of improvising.

Mateus could hold his breath for 45 seconds!  i can’t wait to take him swimming with the turtles, dolphins, and sharks!  i just won’t tell him before we jump in…