Welcome to the Jungle…
Good morning 4am.
North shore swell coming up today. It’s going to be good!
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!
i had an amazing 3 hour surf this morning at Bowls. good to surf with all the happy Father’s on this beautiful Father’s Day! then at 5:30pm this evening, i wanted Part 2 of Father’s Day so i grabbed a bottle of wine, my little Princess, and headed out for the sunset.
i wasn’t planning to surf but i still checked every single spot on the South Shore. the swell was peaking and the conditions were perfect.
right at the sun was setting, i came across this perfect wave and nobody was out! i immediately threw the anchor and headed out for a dream Father’s Day session!
i had my little Princess on the boat following me with her camera. after i rode each wave, she would point out and say “go get one more!” and that’s what i did!
then on the way in, i saw Buddy and Gen waiting at the peak at Bowls so i sped by and gave them some special boat wake. haha…
if you’re not a good surfer, you wouldn’t know what to do with the boat wake wobbling out your wave. but if you’re a good surfer, you can use that to your advantage. so when i saw Buddy taking off, i knew he was going to take advantage of it. this is how you do it. instead of complaining, do something special like this!
after i started to tow-in foil this year, i realized how dangerous it is when you fall. and trust me, you will fall. you’re going 40mph and flying so high that when you fall, you will bounce like a bouncing ball on concrete. and to make things worst, your foil is twirling like an out of control helicopter right near you. if you get hit, goodnight. luckily for me, i have the best wetsuit sponsor in the world so when i asked Dove to make me a custom impact suit, it was pretty easy for them to do. i just got it and i can’t wait to test it out. of course i’m not going to fall on purpose but when i’m flying down a 30′ wave this winter, this might save my life…
