so happy to keep in contact with Toda-san and Matsu.  and so sad i cannot join them on surf trips like this.  i miss jumping in the car, driving far, and surfing together.  i hope we can do that again soon…

super stoked to see Toda-san on his new Trinx Model 1.  i can’t wait to foil with you boys!!!

this is it!  this is my first custom tow in foil board.  it took me 2 months to think about what i wanted and i can’t be happier with the results.  now it just needs some color and fiberglass to finish her off.  i’m pretty excited for big wave winter season to come!!!

when we got out today, the waves were pumping!  it was actually too big to foil so i got out my short board.  thank goodness i had one on Mayuki.  i got 2 barrels today and i would have traded that for any epic foil session.  after all, i love barrels the most!!!

there were some head high sets and if you got one, you are a happy surfer.  the rights here are the best rights on the whole South Shore.

see this long boarder?  he kept on taking off too deep so he would get caught behind the wave.  so i would just drop in and have it all to myself.  it’s days like this, you have to surf smart…

Carter was surfing smart and kept on getting wave after wave.  

and kept on doing backside off the lip and off the lip.  big power turns equals big sprays like this!  stoke…

Everybody Go-Naminori!!

Good morning 5am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, showers, and rainbows.

Have a wonderful day!