ever since the pandemic started, i started surfing at different spots.  and when you surf at different spots, you meet different people.  some old, some young, some cool, and some assholes.  but if you respect everybody around you, they will respect you.  i leaned that from traveling around the world.  just be cool and never be that asshole because nobody likes assholes.  haha…  buy the way, this SUP Aunty was super cool.  always sharing waves with everyone…

my tires have been bald for a while but nowhere in the United States sell these 12″ Japanese tires.  so i’ve been waiting for it to blow up, or a guy to import some…

and finally i got it!  i heard these tires cost $30/each in Japan but if you’re lucky to find some here like i did, expect to pay triple…

when you don’t have a pool at your house, you have to improvise.  and if you know how to improvise, you can make it happen.  welcome to the “poor mans” pool!

Perfect Summer swell continues…

Good morning 5:10am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to yoga.
Have a wonderful day!

i passed by Diamond Head and it was pretty windy.  not as windy as i wanted it to be, but good enough for a downwind foil run.  so i jump back in my car and drive to Black Point.

my friend was at Cliffs taking photos so lucky i got some.  look good and you can see me holding my board getting ready to jump off the rocks.  when i got there, i didn’t realize how big the waves were!  but i always have a rule “never U-Turn.  always try.”  so i jump off and almost get smashed into the rocks.  the waves had a lot of power.  by the time i made it to the outside, i was already tired.  haha…

then i have to take off on huge waves like this just to get started.  it was very challenging but i did it!

after you catch a wave successfully, you turn around and pump as far out to sea as you can.  it’s there you start your long journey.  this is the best and hardest workout you will ever experience…