i went to check the waves mid-morning and decided to watch the action.  good to see the older guys still surfing after all these years. 

and good to see Mike foiling everyday.  i see him on the smallest days like this, and i see him on the biggest tow-in days like last week.  his nickname is “White Lightning.”  i love it!  

and when you see the girls get into foiling, you have to respect that.  this sport is so dangerous so it’s not “if” you get hurt, it’s more like “when” you get hurt.  because you will get hurt…

and when i see the older guys foiling and loving life like this, i’m super inspired.  lots of respect for the foil lovers…

Girls Who Foil…

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Go-Naminori!
Have a wonderful day…

i had to go to Ala Moana Shopping Center today and i was very surprised to see so many stores closed!  this place use to thrive with high end stores.  not anymore…

it’s pretty sad to see the effects of the pandemic.  lost jobs, lost income, lost taxes, and lost dreams…

even William Sonoma closed!  omg!  

when you do a downwind foil, the further out to sea you are, the better.  i’m pretty far out but should have been even further out.  so the trick is to pump out as far as possible because the waves get bigger once you’re out there.  BUT, if you fall, you have to paddle all the way back to the waves.  that’s not fun at all.  i know a couple places in Japan that i can do this so that’s why i’m practicing.  if the winds are right, i think i can ride the swells along Shonan or Chiba for miles…  that’s my goal…