the first Indonesia boat trip i went on was back in 1993.  ever since then, i was addicted to the whole experience.  i would go on boat trips every single year since.  this one was in 2011 and i’ll call it the Go-Naminori Boat trip.  i planned this trip and invited the coolest mix of surfers.  legends, top professional surfers, media, and even some of the best bodyboarders.  we spent 14 days together and surfed some of the best waves the Mentawai’s had to offer.  i got to see everybody shine at what they do best, and i got to know each of these wonderful people not only in the water, but in every aspect of our daily lives.  it’s trips like this that teach you how to connect not only with the ocean, but to connect with people.  i can’t wait to do this again…

Toda-san, Tokura-san, and Takami-san are like family to me. we’ve been on so many boat trips throughout the years and that says a lot.  we have a special bond that is unbreakable.  they helped me understand Japan, understand their culture, and understand how to live and survive as a professional surfer.      i always have a hard time telling people how much i appreciate them, but i’m sure they know how much i appreciate their kindness and love throughout the years.  i wouldn’t be the person i am without them in my life.  so just wanted to say “thank you for everything.  always thinking about you guys and can’t wait to jump on a boat again!”

Ice bath time!

Good morning 5:15am.
North shore down to chest high. Lucky swell!
Ala Moana chest high sets and really good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm. Rainbows back!
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i set my alarm for 3am but been waking up automatically before that.  my body’s loving it and i’m pretty happy to enjoy such long days…

North shore was big again today!  big waves and perfect conditions.  today we were out for 4 hours.  i went the fastest i ever experienced today, fell off a couple times, hit a fish, almost got attacked by a fish, and lucky nobody got hurt.  it was one of those days where you just experience the weirdest things.  want to thank the boys again for the amazing rides…

checking up on some carbon vacuum bag sealed foil boards.  this one is for Matsu.  looking good!

nice to come home to the kids.  Kaira’s been helping me water the plants.

Keahi’s been picking every single tomato off my plant and putting it right in his mouth and eating it.  so i made him sit down for a little while so he can digest the 12 tomatoes he just ate.  haha…