this was during the pandemic.  the empty streets of Waikiki that i knew wouldn’t last very long.  now, it’s crowded, traffic, and the crime is coming back.  there were 2 stabbings last night and one tourist died.  yes, right in the heart of Waikiki…

then this past weekend, this car was speeding down Kalakaua Avenue, hit a tree, and the driver died.  this happened at 3:30am right where i walk to go foil.  scary.  now that everybody in America thinks this pandemic is over, the partying, the crime, and the crazy things are coming back full speed…

we don’t have a pool so i filled up a bucket and told the kids it’s a pool.  they jumped in and didn’t want to come out.  these kids are so pure, they don’t need to worry about all the distractions or current events.  lucky…

Men who ride mountains…

Good morning 3am.
North shore overhead and perfect.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to North.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, the North shore has been awake this Summer!  i woke up at 2:30am again super excited to get out there!  double overhead and pumping!

if you’re a foiler in Hawaii, you are the happiest people in the world right now!  riding mountains in the most perfect conditions Mother Nature can offer.  

want to thank my coach Kaiborg over and over for calling me up to the Major Leagues!  i caught the best waves in my life this morning.  i was going at speeds i never thought was possible.  i fell only once and it felt like i was rolling head over heals on concrete.  but i got up and wanted another one!

the best coaches in every sport “lead by example.”  i’m sitting on the jet ski watching the most powerful lines being drawn out by one of the most powerful waterman in the world.  i’m taking notes, watching carefully, and hoping i can foil like this someday.  but for now, i’m going to keep practicing and keep listening.  my dream of foiling a 30′ wave is starting to look more like a reality.  i’m so excited so maybe can’t sleep tonight…