when i pass by Diamond Head in the evening, i can’t believe how many people are in the water.  i try to picture myself foiling out there but there is no room for that.  and to surf?  no room for that too.  i rather sleep early and go surf at 4am when there’s less people. 

see the water color change?  they just finished pumping sand out of the ocean and putting it on the beach for the tourists.  now the sand is going back out into the ocean.  smart huh?  wait till the next big South swell and you will see all the money and time spent wash away back to the sea where it belongs.  i don’t understand it…

when you see a long line going back to the street at Rainbow Drive-in, that means life is normal here in Hawaii.  

once or twice a year, i’ll wait in that long line to get my favorite plate lunch.  it’s worth the wait…

A very cool local boy…

Good morning 3:45am.
South swell continues…
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Light trade winds all day.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, did you see the clouds this morning?  i was trying to surf but missed so many waves because i was mesmerized by the clouds.

i went to a very secret spot today and took both boards.  nobody was out, the waves were barreling, so i decided to surf.

and the conditions were perfect!  i caught so many good waves on my surfboard and felt like i was on a surf trip again.

omg, the US Government raised traveling to Japan to Level 4.   that’s the highest level so we can’t go to Japan for a while!  omg, things are only getting worst!!!  i’m in total shock…

as for Hawaii, you don’t have to wear a mask outdoors anymore.  most people are vaccinated so surf contest can continue, sports can continue, and things are getting back to normal pretty quickly.  i even heard they are giving free vaccines to tourists!  so to my friends in Japan, come to Hawaii and get your free vaccine, surf, and enjoy paradise.  everything is normal here…