Freak Set!

Good morning 4am.
New South Swell is here!!!
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and perfect.
No wind so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, another picture perfect day in Hawaii.  today was even better than the other days because there was no wind.  and when there is no wind, there are more options.  so i headed to my secret spot on the East side.  passed by Waikiki and the water looked like oil.  i even thought about going to Molokai…

pull up to my spot and the water was so clear.  saw a baby monk seal and turtles.  this is a surfers dream…

i decided to foil this morning because i wanted to get in a good exercise.  tomorrow, i’ll be on my surfboard.  

i had a hard time coming back in.  it was so perfect.

passed by Bowls on the way in and it was crowded.  small too.  i think the swell will start filling in tomorrow.  can’t wait.

drove by Diamond Head this evening for round 2.  counted over 100 surfers out so i just watched.  i know tomorrow morning is going to be just like this morning so i rather sleep and get it bright and early.  so goodnight for now…

we are all finally vaccinated so when i got the bbq invite from my best of friends, i could’t wait!  i felt like i was going on a first date or something because i was super excited to see my friends again.  it’s been over a year since we were able to get together like this.  sitting for over 6 hours straight catching up on the crazy past year…

all you need is some good food, good drinks, and good friends.  then your night will be good too.

i haven’t been drinking at all for the past year.  maybe one beer or two beers once in a great while.  so yeah, i’m a lightweight when it comes to alcohol.   anyway, i ended up drinking 5 beers until almost 1am.  then i automatically woke up at 4am.  the only difference was my head was hurting.  i had a throbbing headache all day long and i’m thinking about quitting alcohol.  i’ve been so healthy that it felt like i had poison in my body.  no motivation to do anything and i felt like i wasted a whole day.  my new limit will be 2 beers and lots of water after that.  i don’t need alcohol to have fun anymore.  it’s all about the natural high… 

nice to catch up with you guys and girls.  i had an amazing time and i hope we can do this every weekend!