Drive by Diamond Head

165

wow, another picture perfect day in Hawaii.  today was even better than the other days because there was no wind.  and when there is no wind, there are more options.  so i headed to my secret spot on the East side.  passed by Waikiki and the water looked like oil.  i even thought about going to Molokai…

pull up to my spot and the water was so clear.  saw a baby monk seal and turtles.  this is a surfers dream…

i decided to foil this morning because i wanted to get in a good exercise.  tomorrow, i’ll be on my surfboard.  

i had a hard time coming back in.  it was so perfect.

passed by Bowls on the way in and it was crowded.  small too.  i think the swell will start filling in tomorrow.  can’t wait.

drove by Diamond Head this evening for round 2.  counted over 100 surfers out so i just watched.  i know tomorrow morning is going to be just like this morning so i rather sleep and get it bright and early.  so goodnight for now…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide