i thought the waves in town were going to be super tiny this morning.  BUT, i was wrong!  it was perfect for longboarding and foiling!  

one of the local guys said “today there is a good crowd.”  he meant that everybody out there were respected locals so we just took turns catching waves all morning.  when nobody takes turns, that’s called a bad crowd.  anyway, so happy to be with the good people today!  thanks boys and girls!

all i’m looking for is something like this.  i can start small like this and pump into one 5x bigger if it comes.  so i’m practicing for this Summer swells!  my dream is to take off on a small one at Pop’s, then pump all the way down to Bowls and get a giant one in the big bowl and pump back to the beach.  dreams come true…

i always wanted a table for Mayuki and i finally got the best one!!!

going to use this for some sunset drinks and pupu’s.  so stoked!

when i was a little kid, i use to play little league baseball.  my team was the Cubs and the only thing i remember was Coach Dean hitting us with bats, balls, and even his hand.  if it were today, he’d go to jail for child abuse.  but to be honest, i think we deserved to get beaten up because we use to do very stupid things.  but yeah, those were some years in my life i totally forgot because i wanted to forget.  mental blackout?  maybe.  but i’m just glad this kid turned out to be a surfer.  the ocean saved my life and nature cured my soul.  i get scary thoughts thinking about “what if i didn’t surf?”  honestly, i don’t think i’d be alive today…

by the way, my Mom took this photo.  i was batting and my brother Mason was catching.  during our childhood years, we’d get into huge fights.  so i must have gotten mad and ripped out his side of the photo and ate it.  haha.  i was a little crazy kid and if you knew me, you wouldn’t have liked me.  because i didn’t even like myself.  so there is hope if you think you’re crazy.  just go surf…

Sailing takes me away to where I’ve always heard it could be.
Just a dream and the wind to carry me.
And soon I will be free…  Christopher Cross

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!