They’re back!!!

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore UP! head high and coming up!!!
South shore UP! head high and perfect.
Trade winds so off shore everywhere.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

for the past 30 years, i’ve been telling everyone that nobody can accurately predict the South swells.  so when you have surfline and other surf reports saying it was going to be 3-5′ today, of course the whole island is going to the beach.  this is Bowls this morning and it looked ridicules!

the North shore boys came to town so we went searching for the perfect wave!

when i custom ordered Mayuki, i made sure there was enough room for diving gear, surfboards, fishing poles, and even a camping tent.  i would have never thought that was the perfect choice because our foil boards fit perfectly!  and 8 years ago, foiling wasn’t even invented yet.  haha…

these boys take me to their North shore spots and we laugh all day long.  now we can foil the South shore spots laughing all day long.  the ocean is the ocean and when we’re in it, it’s always fun…

not too many people know in town know who Kaiborg is.  so when i see people trying to run him over or taking his waves, i just laugh.  it’s just a matter of time when some idiot does or says the wrong thing.  and that’s when i’ll put my head down and say “omg, you better run on water…”  haha…

i sent Seth a text right after this heat “good job Seth.  next time somebody paddles in front of you like that, paddle on his back, stand up, and stomp on his back.”  i watched the replay and Gabriel clearly blocked Seth from taking off.   if it was the other way around, Gabriel would have stood up on Seth’s back, ran him over, and then waved his hands to the judges for the interference.  and if you ask anybody on the World Tour, they would probably agree…

this was a photo of Japan posted on the news yesterday.  i’m not too sure what to say about it.  i think half the people in this world think the pandemic is serious, and the other half think it’s a joke.  i’m pretty sure i’m not going to be able to go back to Japan anytime soon.  bummer…