Welcome to Haleiwa, Hawaii…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore waist high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to fly.
Have a wonderful day!

i went to foil the North shore early this morning but when i saw how beautiful Haleiwa was, i decided that i wanted to shortboard.  but the only problem was, i didn’t have a short board in my car.  haha.

so i borrowed my friends twin fin.  it was thick and wide so i got to sit out at the peak and catch pretty much any wave i wanted.  it paddled and worked so good.

there were some weekend surfers having a wonderful time.  i usually only surf Haleiwa when it’s huge so the crowd is much different. i liked it peaceful like this…

no rain, no rainbows…

then another friend paddled out and let me try his longboard.  it’s a 1960’s model that Joel Tudor rides.  that board worked amazing.  i was so happy to surf again!!!

super cool vibe out at Haleiwa.  i had so much fun!!!

then i came back to town and went shortboarding again.  this time, i didn’t want to get sunburnt so i tested out my new 1mm Dove Wetsuit top.  omg, it was warm, comfortable, and cool.  no sunburn for me anymore.  thanks Dove!

one of my best friends passed away recently.  i’m still having a hard time processing it and i’m still in disbelief that i will never physically get to see her again.  it’s crazy when you see someone so healthy and happy one month, then gone the next month.  i’m still lost for words but what i can say is she’s in a better place now.  no more pain, no more suffering, and no more haters.  the ocean is her resting place and i can surf with her everyday from any location.  she knew well that the ocean is “ONE” and will always be connected.  friendships means being there for each other through the good, bad, and ugly times.  and that’s what i’ll miss about her the most.  for the past 30 years, she was always on my side no matter what.  and to me, that’s precious.  so i want to say goodbye my special friend…

we both loved dolphins and had multiple experiences seeing them together.  the day she went into the ocean is the day this dolphin came to the boat.  so this was a very special moment.  i looked at the dolphin in the eye and i could feel it saying “your dear friend is in a good place.”   that made me feel at peace…