i went to foil the North shore early this morning but when i saw how beautiful Haleiwa was, i decided that i wanted to shortboard. but the only problem was, i didn’t have a short board in my car. haha.
so i borrowed my friends twin fin. it was thick and wide so i got to sit out at the peak and catch pretty much any wave i wanted. it paddled and worked so good.
there were some weekend surfers having a wonderful time. i usually only surf Haleiwa when it’s huge so the crowd is much different. i liked it peaceful like this…
no rain, no rainbows…
then another friend paddled out and let me try his longboard. it’s a 1960’s model that Joel Tudor rides. that board worked amazing. i was so happy to surf again!!!
super cool vibe out at Haleiwa. i had so much fun!!!
then i came back to town and went shortboarding again. this time, i didn’t want to get sunburnt so i tested out my new 1mm Dove Wetsuit top. omg, it was warm, comfortable, and cool. no sunburn for me anymore. thanks Dove!
