i haven’t spent so much time at Jurassic’s in my life.  this year has had to be the best by far.  after the last swell of a century, i decided that was my last time for this year.  i won’t miss the long drive, i won’t miss the brown water, i won’t miss the logs and rubbish in the water, i won’t miss the jellyfish, and i won’t miss the crowds.  

but i will miss the long rides, the glassy conditions, and the beautiful scenery.

King of Kaisers…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore waist high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

after i came in from my sunset session last night at Ala Moana, i was suddenly blocked in by hundreds of bikers.  the parking lot was full!   i didn’t even know there were that many bicycles in Hawaii!

one of the kids told me that the Bike Factory puts on bike rides once in a while.  and since it’s being a long time, hundreds came out for this one.

they rode from Ala Moana all the way to Diamond Head.  the start of the bike line was already past Trump Tower and there were still guys joining in from the back.  it was pretty cool to see all the locals having a beautiful Saturday night exercising…

omg, so sad that this Olympic hope got struck by lighting.  22 year old El Salvadorian Katherine Diaz was surfing at El Tunco and died while surfing.   i surfed there before and remember there would always be huge storms in the evenings.  so sad…