i’ve been very busy going in and out of surfboard factories recently.  today i spent 30 minutes in there and my brain felt like i was high on drugs.  the smell was so strong so by the time i left, i didn’t even remember a thing.

these are some of my new foil boards.  so happy to see them!

i was watching the boys working with the resin.  just by watching, i learned so much.  this is how i like to learn.  if i watch, i can do it.  that’s how i’ve been learning my whole life…

this will be a demo board.  i know that the first guy i let borrow it, he or she won’t give it back.  haha.  but i understand because when i try something good, i don’t want to give it back either.  thanks Trinx for the magic!

Surfboard Colors…

Good morning 5am.
North shore chest high from the North. Junky conditions.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, rain, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

it was 6pm yesterday evening and i already ate dinner so i was ready for bed.  then i checked the waves and it looked super fun.  the water was super clean too.  so i drove down and paddled out right as the sun set.  i had the best after sunset session ever…

today i was thinking the exact same thing but when i checked the ocean this evening, the water was dirty again!  oh no!  this is stinky Bowls.

then i saw the dirty water moving its way to Rockpiles.  i thought i’d drive down and make it for a few waves before it got totally dirty.

right when i was about to leave, the stinky water took over Rockpiles and there was no way i wanted to jump into that.  now i can sleep by 7pm tonight.  yeah!

as for North shore, it hasn’t been clean in over a week.  and it’s looking like we’ll have to wait another week.  as for South shore, it might not be as brown as the North shore, but i guarantee you it’s 10x more dirty.  so tomorrow is going to be tricky to find some clean water to fly in.  but i’ll be looking from 4am…