Last Ride:  End of the Magic East swell…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ from the North/East. Cleaning up.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Trade winds back today at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

i knew that the whole island was going to Jurassic’s this morning so i decided to check somewhere else.  pulled up to a spot on the East side and the waves were super good!  no foilers at all!!!

just a couple surfers out and the waves could be ridden for miles.  clean water and lots and lots of waves.

when the sun came out, the kids came out to play.  so fun watching them enjoy the ocean so much.

another bird flying above me.  i just watched it flying and understand how it feels now that i can fly to.  

later i went to check out Sandy Beach and couldn’t believe how perfect it was!  it was 4-6′ and the conditions were as good as it gets.  

there were only 10 guys out with lots and lots of waves.  Sandy Beach gets like this 2x a decade.  and yesterday and today were those times so you might have to wait another 10 years to see it like this again.

sitting on the beach next to a bunker that was used for WWII.  it was these bunkers were soldiers watched the Japanese warplanes flying by to attack Pearl Harbor.  historic…

i’ve always wondered why i couldn’t stick my hand down a sand crab hole and grab them.  they are so smart!

there are lots of guys starting to foil.  i always watch them and try to give them advise.

after this guy almost ran me straight over, i told him “hey, don’t look at me unless you want to kill me!”  haha.

i rode a bunch of waves together with Kaiborg.  we no better not to look at each other.  this is the last guy in the world i would want to run over…

my dream of flying has come true.  and it’s so addicting!!!