Hawaii’s Disneyland…

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore 4-6′ from the North/East.
East shore 6′ and coming down fast.
South shore small and clean.
Clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

i took a chance this morning and went to Jurassic’s.  i almost turned around because this spot usually needs strong winds, and the winds were super calm.  but i continued my drive and when i arrived, i couldn’t believe what i saw!

Kaiborg and i always race there.  he leaves from the North, and i leave from the South.  today, we arrived at the exact same time.  haha.  

i’ve never ever in my life surfed here this big with no winds and  perfect conditions.  it was very calm and super sunny all day.  so from my 30 years experience, this was the best ever for this spot.  then when i came in, one of the Uncles said it was his absolute best in 50 years of surfing here.  in other words, today was probably the best day of the century!!!

the whole channel was breaking so you could ride a wave from way out there all the way to the beach.  maybe the longest wave in the world?

the waves were so long that i was pulling out half way through.  i didn’t want to paddle back that far out.  this day will go down in the history books of surfing on the East side of Oahu.  glad i was there because i might never surf it like this again in my lifetime…

my friend just sent me this photo.  this was the day i took the boys for an overnight dive trip.  we just left the harbor and drove very far away.  super excited the whole way there!  

the highlight of that trip was diving in the night, then looking up at the stars thinking to myself “omg, this is the most stars i’ve seen in my life!”  next time i go, i’m going to stay up all night counting the stars…