Diamond Head is so GREEN!!!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 6-8′ from the North/East. Junky conditions.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good. Still dirty water.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
North/East winds at 20mph.
Clouds, rain, and sun.
Going to Disneyland.
Have a wonderful day!

went to Diamond Head early again and the waves were absolutely perfect!  bigger, cleaner, and happier!

gosh, i think i only missed 2  sunrises this whole year so far.  this is my happy time.

within an hour, it got super crowded.  long wait for waves if you’re surfing, but no wait if you’re foiling.

this is the reason why i don’t feel bad dropping in on long boarders.  some of them just have no etiquette at all…

anyway, Diamond Head was probably the best spot this morning and also the cleanest water on the island.  tomorrow i know a special place that will probably be the best it’s been all year.  i’ll be there in the dark…

check out this old photo of Seth and Gen.  we just came back from my secret dive spot outside Waikiki.  they were just starting off as free divers so they were still nervous.  i use to swim away from them and they would always be looking for me.  haha.  then when they find me, i use to tell them “stay away from me because you’re scaring the fish away!!!”  they didn’t understand then, but they understand now…

went to pick up some new boards from Trinx!  i was singing out loud all the way home!  so happy!

then took it straight to Jeannie’s house for some artwork!  i love it! 

i always tell people to try their new boards only when the waves are good.  never try it out on a junky day because you want a good first impression.  so i’m listening to what i teach and am waiting for the perfect day, which is hopefully very soon…