Natural made sand castle…

Good morning 4:50am.
North shore 2-4′ and coming up to 8′ this afternoon. Onshore.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Cool North winds at 20mph.
Sunny day.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

i thought the waves were going to be perfect this morning but a storm came through and the winds turned onshore.  it might look ugly, but it was actually pretty good.  not too many people and lots and lots of waves.  it’s days like this you learn about the ocean, and about how to connect with the waves.  i’d choose to surf a day like this rather than a glassy day with 100 surfers out.  it was so peaceful!

sitting in the lineup watching the sunrise is always a great way to start off a day.  everyday…

onshore winds and choppy conditions doesn’t matter to me anymore.  i just pump out to a flat spot and do a turn that makes me feel so happy.  it’s like surfing a perfect glassy 5′ wave.  the only difference is this ride won’t end until i say so.  cold North winds starting tomorrow and i know a place that will be super good!  see you there, or maybe not?  haha…

there has been good news recently.  covid is down, vaccines are up, and things in Hawaii are slowly getting back to normal.  lots of places are reopening and i’m already eyeing out a mini vacation.  it’s going to be on a white sandy beach with blue water just like this.  i went to this beach many times and i’ve never seen a single person around.  it’s just us and the whole beach and sea to ourselves!

and right on the beach, there is treasure!  

and if you look really good, there is even treasure you can eat!  i can feel that day coming really soon.  my mouth is already watering…

it’s been a good long vacation here on Oahu for me.  i can finally focus on one thing, and that is foiling.  trying new equipment is super exciting.  now i know how pilots must feel when they fly new airplanes.  gotta keep calm or you’re going to crash!!!