went out to Diamond Head early this morning.  it was very challenging when i first got out, then it got really good.  i love it onshore like this because the waves keep on pushing into one another.  so on the foil, you can drop into wave after wave. 

then went back for round 2 this afternoon.  even better than this morning!  another day of 5 hours in the sea…

after i came in, i saw a dark storm coming straight for Oahu.  i sat on the top watching it creep closer and closer.  it was so cool!

right in front of my eyes, you could see the wind change, the waves change, and the darkness coming near.  watching the whales jump outside was just the bonus from Mother Nature.

then the raindrops came.  i took this last photo and captured another bird flying by again.  i just love it!  now i’m home and the storm is here.  heavy rain, loud thunder, and bright lighting coming down right now!  be safe everyone…

it was 10 years ago today when the tsunami hit Japan.  that day will be etched in my mind forever.  i can still remember where i was in the ocean in Palau, and i can still remember seeing the first images on tv when i got back to my room.  that was surreal because i would never think something like that would ever happen in my lifetime.  then when i got to Japan, everything sank in 10x more.  being from Hawaii, i was emotionless.  i didn’t know how to react, i didn’t know what to say, and i didn’t know how to feel.  trying to stay positive and strong in front of everybody, then feeling so sad that i’d be crying myself to sleep at night.

but then i start to see hope, i start to meet amazing people, then i started to connect with people like i’ve never connected before.  everyday would be a challenge, but everyday things would get better.  the smiles came back, the hope was filling the air, and the people of Japan were starting to rebuild right in front of my eyes.  we ended up going on 10 missions and as each would end, we all would kind of grow together as a family.  some lost more than others, some lost less, and some didn’t lose at all.  but in the end, we were all ONE!

that day changed my life.  it made me realize how precious every day and every moment is.  i haven’t taken things for granted since.  i appreciate my family and friends much more then i ever did.  so 10 years later, i would like to say hello to my friends i’ve met along the way.  i haven’t seen many in a while, but they are always in my heart.  hope to see you all again very soon, but in the meantime, please take care, keep healthy, and enjoy each and every moment of your life.  miss you guys…

AM:  My Favorite Time…

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
DIRTY BROWN WATER so be careful.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Clouds, showers, and no rainbows.
Going to look for clean water.
Have a wonderful day!