it was another very challenging day for the foil, but i love challenges.  and the more i foil waves like this, the better i will get.  same as surfing…

wow, there was a huge storm that poured rain over Oahu.  it’s been a while so you can expect crazy things to happen.

although Haleiwa wasn’t raining, it was storming in the mountains.  and the rain water has to go somewhere so when the level rose 15′ in minutes, the government issued an evacuation for everybody in Haleiwa.  it was the first time i heard of an evacuation of the whole Haleiwa…

little by little, the rain water started to overflow the rivers.  then it got ugly.  i hope everybody was safe and their houses were ok.

this is not in a river or ocean, this is on a street.

and take a look at Waimea Bay.  the water up there on the North and East shores won’t be clean for another week or so.  stay out because the big sharks like to play on days like this…

if i had to choose a month of the year for the best surf in Hawaii, it would have to be March. March is the transition month where the weather and waves can change in a minute.  it could change from junky onshore to epic offshore right in front of your eyes.  the weather and surf reports get it wrong all the time in March.  but if you know how the storms pass through the islands and understand the signs, you can figure it out pretty easily.  and if you can figure it out,  you can paddle out to the most popular spots with nobody out.  you can score it for an hour all to yourself, and then people find out and it gets crowded really fast.  but by then, you’re completely satisfied.  so yes, March is my favorite month in Hawaii and i’m excited to see where i’ll score another perfect session like this…

H20…

Good morning 5am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Heavy rain and stormy today.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!