Wednesday April29日 2026年

New Quiver

right before 4am, they play the Star Spangled Banner on tv.  i’m always up watching it and getting excited to start my day.  

went to the factory to check up on my boards.  and also check up on new surfboard designs.  

then i spotted out some of my friends foil boards.  almost done boys!  

check out this beautiful board.  pure art!

then threw 3 new foil boards in the truck and headed home a very happy man!  dropped one off on the way back to Jeannie Chesser for an airbrush.  can’t wait!

Time After Time…

another day of miscellaneous projects for me.  i’m sure learning a lot during this pandemic…

when i use to ride airplanes, i would wonder why the tips of the wings were pointed upwards?   these are called winglets.  some birds like eagles have them and it reduces drag and adds more lift.  makes total sense…

once i can fly again, a boat trip would be ideal.  just a few friends exploring the Indian Ocean like this.

diving everyday, you just don’t know what you will encounter.  if you get a chance to swim with a whale shark, you’re a very lucky person…

pet shop or animal cruelty?  live owls in bags for sale in deep Indonesia.  i think it was $5/each.

i get asked over and over.  don’t you miss Backdoor?  my answer is “no, i surfed there for 30 years straight and enjoyed hundreds of barrels of a lifetime.  i miss the barrels, but i don’t miss the crowd, fights, dramas, and knocking out on the reef and driving myself to the emergency room time after time.”

March 8, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Perfect sunrises this week…

Good morning 5am.
North shore 2-4′ and fun. Laniakea best.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, rain, and rainbows.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!