Wednesday April29日 2026年

OMG, Low Tide Cliffs!!!!!

i’ve been spending hours and hours on modifying my new foil.  every little millimeter makes a huge difference so i’m trying to figure out the science behind it.

then i finally get my brand new foil set up perfectly.  this morning i was flying so fast i couldn’t believe it.  it was working so good!  so after a have a perfect session, i ride my last one all the way to the beach.  and right as i was to get off, i hit the reef hard and flew off.  i was worried about my foil more than about my body…

when i turned over my foil, i yelled “OH NOOOOOOOOO!!!!”  my brand new thousand dollar wing is ruined!!!!  it’s like taking your brand new car out for a test drive and scraping a wall.  omg, i’m so shocked!!!

this morning was a very low tide.  i’ve been trying to go out on lower tides because there are more waves and no foilers.  it was a gamble and i lost.  and it hurts so bad.  tomorrow you won’t find me at Diamond Head, but you will find me flying somewhere for sure…

Molokai Hunters…

since the lockdown, hunters haven’t been going to Molokai.  that’s not good because the deer start to overpopulate and it becomes a huge problem.  when there are too many deer, they eat all the greenery, then the mud runs off into the ocean, then the muddy water kills the reef.  so yeah, hunting is very important for the island of Molokai…

this is hunting Molokai style.  the first time i saw this, i almost threw up.  but realizing that this is part of the life there, i accepted it.  there ain’t no Costco so if you want meat, you have to hunt for it…

and if you haven’t tried deer meat before, you don’t know what you’re missing.

and when Uncle Dino cooks it for you, it’s even better!

you won’t find any leaner meat than this.  absolutely no fat and very juicy.  i can’t wait to go hunting again!

March 7, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

On a white sandy beach of Hawaii….

Good morning 5am.
North shore shoulder high and good in the morning. Bumpy in the afternoon.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph this morning becoming 30mph later today.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!