i was looking back into my 2007 blogs.  i sure miss the days of hanging out with my friends and just enjoying life as it came.  Hayato, Satoshi, Matchi, and i use to dive, catch fish, and eat it at the Chinese restaurant down my street.   

fresh fish Chinese style.  and it was free!

then hanging out on the North Shore surfing Pipeline/Backdoor every day.  Tokura-san, Satoshi, Matchi, and Kobayashi-san.  all amazing surfers…

then still getting coached by Ben Aipa.  in and out of the water, Ben would always teach me about surfing, waves, competition, and life…

and the boys were just little kids back in 2007.  i got so many photos of them surfing and hanging out.  i’ll post more tomorrow…

Keep Warm, Keep Dove…

Good morning 5am.
North shore small this morning but coming up to 4-6′ this afternoon. Perfect conditions.
Ala Moana knee high and super high tide this morning. More waves this afternoon.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
East winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

 we rode up the mountain for a sunset moment.  Tammy, Kelia, and Tiara smiling the whole way.  i had a great time hanging out with the girls…

paddled out at dark again this morning.  so far this year, i’m doing pretty good surfing or foiling before the island wakes up.  almost every single day of 2021…

after jumping huge waves in the channel on our last trip, the dive door broke.  i have to fix it asap because i can feel another dive trip coming up very soon… 

spent another afternoon with Leo.  this kid is super smart and super talented.  he listens very well and is a very fast learner.  this is perfect surfing style!    

during this pandemic, i’m trying to be responsible.  wearing face masks is mandatory in my car.  you can’t see, but we’re smiling ear to ear!!!  haha…