the Hawaii foil movement is ON!  so many new designs and so many new shapers and foilers recently.  Trinko made me a board to test out and it works so good, that i’m not going to give it back.  haha…

and now he made me my own custom board.  it’s getting glassed now so i should be getting it next week.  can’t wait! 

i was thinking of where to go when we can start traveling again.  after going to the Maldives in the past on 4 boat trips, i told myself that i would never go back there again.  it was too far, and the waves were too small to surf for me.  BUT, since i started foiling, i changed my mind.  i remember seeing some good unridden waves that would be perfect to foil.  long rides with nobody around.  and in between foil sessions, i can go diving on some of the best drop offs in the world.  so yes, the Maldives is on my list again.  jump on a boat with some good friends, and have a good time…

Dirty brown water all over the island today!

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore small and clean.
Ala Moana new South swell! Chest/shoulder high and good.  but dirty water.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Brown water so be safe.
Going to look for clean water.
Have a wonderful day!

i wasn’t too sure how the waves were going to be this morning but i drove out in the dark anyway.  all i needed was to ride 3 long waves to be completely satisfied for the day.  it was so amazing!!!

want to thank Jason for taking a video of one of my waves.  the past 2 days was like a dream!

as i was driving home today, i stopped for a little while to look at this amazing view on the East side.

then i came home and the pouring rain started.  this was the heaviest rain we had in years…

of the 35 years i lived in Palolo, this was the first time i saw a waterfall up my road.  i couldn’t believe how beautiful it was!!!