since we can’t go on surf trips now, i have to make my own.  so when i got up this morning, i wanted to search for the most perfect wave.  i was out in the ocean before sunrise.  

i’ve been on many boat trips around the world but Hawaii is the best.  it’s the best because i don’t have to rely on another captain, i can make the decisions on my own.  so when and where i want to go, i go!

so i check this one spot far away where i knew the water will be clean.  i could see the reef clearly so i knew it was safe.  there were only a couple SUP guys out so i had the spot to foil all to myself.  a perfect right one after another.  it was like a dream surf trip session!  

i haven’t seen any whales this year so i went outside looking.  i didn’t see any whales or dolphins so i’m guessing it’s because the water is way to warm this year.  they will be back and when they do, i’ll be there…

we had 5 sewage spills from the rain so over 40,000 gallons (15,416 liters) spilled into the ocean.  most of it in the Ala Wai Canal so i wouldn’t surf near it.  i saw 20 guys surfing at Bowls and i almost threw up thinking about it.

anyway, tomorrow is a new day so maybe another boat trip.  goodnight…

Flying @ Jurassic Park!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore waist high and good.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head head high wind swell.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

everybody says that my brother is really good at dirt bike riding.  he can go up vertical hills, in rivers, and pretty much anywhere.  he always invites me to go with him but i refuse.  the reason is i know he won’t wait for me.  so i’ll probably try to catch him up and follow him.  then along the way, i will hit something and fly over the handle bars.  on a 10′ wave i’m not scared because it’s water, but when you fall in the mountain, it hurts!  

when my sister goes, i’m going.  she’s actually pretty good but that’s the pace i want to go.

not only is it steep, there are lots of big rocks, branches, and trees all over the trail.  you can get poked in the face by a branch, or break your ankle by a rock pretty easily.  it’s pretty dam dangerous.

and this is the reward.  once you get up to the top, you’re sweating so much.  then you take off your helmet and cool down in minutes while appreciating this view.  it’s breathtaking…

this is a great dirt bike gang to ride with.  everybody’s super good and i’m like the beginner.  so the more i go with these guys, the better i’ll get.  just like foiling, we all love the speed!!!