January 29, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report


Welcome to my golden ocean party…

Good morning 5am.
North shore chest high and coming up. Windy and bumpy.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Smaller than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Clean Water Surf Trip

did you see the full moon this morning???  omg, it was so bright and so big!!!  

full moon setting on the West, and sun rising from the East.  this universe is amazing…

and now that the whole island got a good cleanse from all that rain, the ocean will cleanse itself in a few more days.  but today, it still looked like this at Bowls.  yuck…

i won’t surf in dirty water if i know i could find clean water somewhere.  you just have to look good, and you will find it…

omg did you see the rainbow this morning?  it was one of the biggest and brightest rainbows i’ve seen in years.  

the colors were standing out so clearly.  i was watching, foiling, watching, and foiling.  so cool!

another day of finding clean water and perfect waves.  i feel like i’m on a surf trip.  can’t wait to do the same thing tomorrow…

Fuel Pumping Jurassics…

when you drive an old car, it will eventually break.  and when that car is from Japan, you won’t find any parts for it here in Hawaii.  luckily, my brother had a new fuel pump.

so i took out the old fuel pump, then put in the new one.  gasoline spilt on my hands, arms, and body.  even after 2 showers, i smelt  like a gas station.

Jurassic Park is one of the best foiling spots in the world.  it breaks  only a few times a year so when it does, you better get your ass out there.  there are waves everywhere and once you catch one, you can ride it for minutes.  this is one spot where i can be totally satisfied after just one wave…

but i want more and more so staying out 3 hours is pretty easy.  i don’t want to go home!  i’m already dreaming of my next chance out there.  and when that happens, you’ll know where to find me…