January 30, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Double the pleasure…

Good morning 5am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high. Waist high at Kaisers and Rockpiles.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Let’s Talk Travel: New Caledonia

since we can’t travel, let’s talk about traveling.   New Caledonia is part of France and is located in the southwest Pacific Ocean right above Australia.  there is a lagoon that has a total area of 24,000 square kilometres (9,300 sq mi), which makes it one of the largest lagoons in the world.  a very long time ago, we chartered that catamaran, hired that captain Eric, loaded up with food, and sailed around that huge lagoon fishing, diving, and looking for waves.

one morning, we sailed outside the reef so we couldn’t see how the waves were breaking.  the only way was to jump in and find out.  i remember being the first one in, and not knowing how big it was, how shallow it was, or how the wave even breaks, i paddled to the peak and this was my very first wave.  i will never forget looking out of that huge barrel into John Callahan’s lens pointed right at me.  until then, nobody knew there were even waves in New Caledonia.  after that, New Caledonia was on the world surf map and thousands of surfers flocked there since.  i would love to go back again because the fishing and diving is probably the best in the world!  and yeah, the surf is ok.  haha…

Absolutely NO Complaints…

the weather has been unusually warm this year.  we only had a couple days of cold North winds which is rare for this time of year. the water is still a warm 79 degrees which is rare too.  i ain’t complaining…

i went to Ala Moana Shopping Center in the middle of the day and i couldn’t believe how empty it was!!!  this part is usually filled with hundreds of people but i could count less than ten.  i also saw 50% and 70% sale signs everywhere and nobody was buying anything.  this is getting too weird for me…

i’ve been searching for the best surf spot every single morning.  then i either drive there, paddle there, or take Mayuki there.  there’s usually nobody out, but sometimes a couple lucky guys will  show up.  the vibe is good, the waves are plentiful, and everybody is extremely happy.  no complaints from me surfing perfect waves like this everyday…