i love this time of year because the waves are hard to predict in town.  the winds, the swell direction, and the weather changes everyday so you can’t just look at the surf report, you have to know where to check.  i’ve been doing this for 30 years so the chances of going to the right spot is pretty good.  imagine paddling out in the dark, then when the sun starts to rise, you’re all alone on a perfect shoulder high wave like this all to yourself…

and if you’re lucky like me, you will get 4:30am surf reports from the North Shore.  i’m always on standby for that and when i get the call, i’m full speed out there.  on this particular day, we had this whole surf spot to ourselves.  score…

if you have time, watch Finding Aloha.  it’s filled with the Hawaiian language, culture, and aloha.  it’s pretty amazing…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 2-4′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

the warning signs are still posted on the South shore.  the water coming out of the Ala Wai is still stink so stay away.

i went to check out the debris today and it looked worst than the other days. 

no, you don’t want to swim in this.  

i took a day off from the ocean and did my training on land.  my early morning training routine is going solid every day since the coronavirus started.  whether in the water or on land, i won’t miss the full moon and sunrise.

planning for a dive trip next week so getting Mayuki ready to go!

i watched the Netflix movie Finding Aloha today.  it was so good!  good to see actors from Hawaii spreading the aloha…