Idiopathic Guttata Hypomelanosis

school for the kids finally started yesterday in Hawaii.  so now Mateus finally gets to go back to play with his friends, and make trouble to his teachers.  while most people think that schools should still be closed, i think the opposite.  kids need to be kids.  kids need stimulation.  kids need to learn.  if Hawaii kept schools closed any longer, i could imagine how many kids will go into depression.  and in my eyes, depression is worst than coronavirus.    if they closed schools when i was a kid, i’m sure i would be experimenting with things that i shouldn’t be experimenting with.  and that’s a scary thought…

i went back to my skin doctor to see what the white spots that are popping up on my body are.  us surfers call it “haole rot,” which is fungus caused by too much exposure to the sun.  mine didn’t go away with the cream so i thought there was another remedy.  

my doctor comes out and says “you don’t have haole rot, you have Idiopathic Guttata Hypomelanosis which is white pigment spots caused from UV.  so he said it’s not going away and it will spread so try to stay out of the sun.  umm, that’s not happening…

January 12, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

A perfect day at Cliffs…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore coming up today. 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds so good conditions everywhere.
Sunny and warm after cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Hawaiian Lazy Style…

have you noticed how blue the sky has been recently?  the air has been super clean and fresh so the sky is as blue as it possibly gets.  i was out foiling before the sunrise this morning and saw almost every color in the sky you can possibly see.

i was watching this guy surfing this spot all to himself on a Sunday afternoon.  i was going to paddle out with my foil but decided not to.  i didn’t want to ruin this guys dream session…

went up the the mountains behind my house to watch the sunset. it was pretty dam amazing!

Oahu will get it’s first wave pool next year.  it will be located on the West side.  enjoy it but you will never find me surfing in chlorine…

they just changed this telephone pole in Kaimuki.  and instead of switching over the wires from the old pole, they simply cut it and let it hang up there.  somebody must have gotten lazy.  haha…