Another crisp and chilly morning…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Cool North winds in the morning becoming trade winds later.
Sunny warm day.
Going to fly.
Have a wonderful day!

i woke up at 3am again and was so excited to foil.  i knew the waves were going to be perfect and it sure was!

getting out and foiling around with the sun rising like this is the best feeling.  i feel so free!

and the waves at Diamond Head were super perfect!  very glassy and clean conditions for everyone.

when you look at this, you will never think we’re in the middle of a pandemic.  this makes you forget about stuff like that…

i caught my last wave all the way to the beach.  it couldn’t have been a prettier day than this…

i hiked back up the cliff and watched the waves.  i was amazed on how uncrowded it was today.  i don’t think everybody knew how good it was going to be.  tomorrow expect the same conditions with triple amount of the surfers out…

what did i learn from foiling into big mountains like this?  well, i was the student so i was listening to my teacher Kaiborg.   i listened carefully and made sure i was 100% alert.  i was watching everything he was doing.  from the time he got the ski ready, to his equipment, to his actions, and mostly to his words.  everything he said, i did.  i put 100% trust into him because i felt safe.  the rest, i had to figure out for myself.  i still can’t believe i got on a foil and board i’ve never even seen before.  and i still can’t believe i got towed into my first wave without even practicing.  right before i let go of the rope, i yelled to Kaiborg, “do i go left or right???”  he said go right and all i could see was the mountain of water getting bigger and bigger.  then it got steeper and steeper.  the whole time i was screaming like a kid riding a jet coaster.  i wasn’t scared, i was so stoked to be flying so fast.  i can’t describe the feeling yet because i’m still in disbelief.  when i wake up from this dream, i will explain more about that experience.  but it was only 5 days into 2021 and my biggest dream of the year already came true…

as i was driving home from the North shore, there was a lot of traffic.  i took my time, took a deep breath, and i remembered telling myself “i’m glad to be alive!”  not even traffic could bring me down because i was in total content…