December 30, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

VIP Parking for Me?  Thank you!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 8-12′ and looking perfect. Pipeline is going off!
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 2020mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

My Sweet Babies…

when it’s Winter season, everybody is spread out around the island because there are waves all over.  so if you follow the signs of nature, you can come across spots that are usually packed with hundreds of surfers, and have it with only a few.   just like this perfect day at Diamond Head…

this is a very nice turn.  knees are bent, eyes looking forward, and arms perfectly positioned.

this surfer girl was taught to surf the right way…

Mateus loves flowers so now i’m trying to get the other kids to love it.  i picked this gardenia from the garden and gave it to Keahi.  i told him to smell it…

and when he put this close to his nose to smell it, you should have seen his eye!  they lit up with happiness!  and he kept this flower to his nose the whole time.  now we got another flower lover baby!

Ending Star-Spangled Banner

it’s pretty fun watching my grand-nieces and grand-nephews growing up.  they come over, make lots of noise, mess up the house, then when i get tired, i just send them home.  haha.

before the pandemic, i use to wake up at 4am.  but now, i wake up at 3am no matter what.  i don’t even need an alarm because i’m too excited for the day to start.  i’m living a grandpa kind of lifestyle.  haha…

when i was in High School and College, i use to hang out with my friends all night long.  we would stay up so late that the National Anthem would play on tv.  that usually meant that tv was finished for the night so you’re talking 3 or 4am.  now i’m up before the National Anthem plays so it’s pretty funny watching it every morning now.  instead of being drunk or tired, now i’m alert and fired up for the day to start.  this lifestyle is much more healthier and happier…