An evening at the Cliff…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore 2-4′ and good conditions.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head shoulder high and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

now that the Pipeline Masters is finished, the boys can go back to being normal island boys.  free diving is the best stress reliever of all.  it will put you back at peace, let you reset, and once again, connect with Mother Nature.  good to see Joshua smiling again…

now the boys want to catch big fish so i was helping Joshua set up this buoy with flashers.  when i make this, i try to think like a fish.  so putting on shinny flashers will attract big fish, and also big sharks.  the more wildlife coming around the flashers, the better chance of your dinner coming too…i usually make it 50′ long.  all you have to do is dive down 50′ and wait for something to come out of the deep blue.  and when it does, you better be calm or you will run out of breath.  haha…  good luck boys!

WSL / TONY HEFF

i watched the finals of the Pipeline Masters today.  i was very impressed with John John’s game plan.  he couldn’t have surfed a more perfect heat than that.  i’m just glad a guy from Hawaii won.  wish it was one of my nephews, but their time will come.  congratulations to John John on his first Pipeline Masters!

 Okinawa is a very happy place for me.  i can look back at old photos and reminisce the great times i had there.  when i’m there, i can honestly feel like i’m home, i feel very welcomed, feel happy, and even feel loved.  my friends in Okinawa are gold to me.  i’ve had some of the most precious memories of my life there…imagine partying all night with some of your closest friends in the world.  then waking up early in the morning and surfing huge typhoon waves like this?  then doing it all again over every single day.  haha.  i remember staring down this wave thinking to myself “wow, i can actually die here!  and i didn’t even care if i did.”  then the next wave i went on, i got slammed on the reef, went to the hospital, and was thankful i was still alive.  haha…   every night we ended up at Hard Reef.  and once the shots of snake sake came out, the rest of the night was a blur.  and i still don’t remember…another night, another party, and another blur…one of the most welcoming and warm places in the world.  since we can’t travel now, i can only remember the amazing times i had there.  and once this pandemic is over, Okinawa is one of the first places i’m going…